Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Back in Quito!

Hey y'all!

Don't think I've forgotten about you few that are still reading this! I've been more or less without internet for the past month at my internship in rural Ecuador, and I'll be updating in the next couple of days. Suffice it to say it was one of the most humbling, challenging, fantastic experiences I've ever had! More to come on that. Here's an adorable picture to tide you over.

One of my pint-sized friends, Ariana

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Las Islas!

 Hey everyone!

Once again, sorry it’s been a while. I’ve been up to my neck doing cool things! I’ll try to keep this post short in writing and full of pictures--they definitely say it better than words when it comes to the Galápagos.

On Thursday, March 22nd, we left for the southern coast of Ecuador and the Galápagos. We flew to Manta, just as I did during spring break, and took a bus to Puerto Lopez, just as I did during spring break.
We stayed at a hostel called Los Piqueros Patas Azules (Spanish for “blue-footed boobies”), not far from the fishing town of Puerto Lopez. In the following 3 days, we did activities on the beach, learning about intertidal zones, fish markets, and plants that eventually made it to Galápagos. One of the mornings, we went to the fish market in Puerto Lopez. It was so cool! The fishermen literally just park their boats on the beach as the tide goes out, and sell the fish they caught that morning from their boats. We saw sharks, marlins, swordfish, tuna, sting rays, pufferfish, and dozens of other types of marine fish. I chatted with a guy cutting open some perch, and he taught me to do it!

A bunch of dead sharks at the fish market :(


We also spent some time at one of the most popular beaches in Ecuador called Los Frailes. We climbed up to the lookout point and it was one of the most beautiful views I’ve seen yet. On the last day on the coast, we went to a small surf town near Puerto Lopez called Montañita (pronounced “mohn-tahn-yEET-ah”). I was feeling a bit under the weather, so I didn’t try my hand at surfing, but I loved the town! It had a really chill vibe, lots of cool people, and some pretty fantastic blended drinks.

View from the top of Los Frailes


On Sunday morning at 3:45 a.m., we woke up to take a bus to Guayaquil to catch a plane to Galápagos. The process of checking your bags is a bit more tedious when you’re going to Galápagos because they’re trying to preserve the original condition of the islands as much as possible, and they don’t want you to carry any foreign seeds to the islands.  Our group of 21 students and two professors was split in two upon arrival to the airport, because we couldn’t fit our whole group on one cruise. On our cruise, I was with 8 of my classmates, my professor Cath, her best friend growing up Steph, Steph’s 16-year-old son Tristan, and Dolly, the woman from Madison under whom I’ll be doing my internship.


Our plane landed on the island of San Cristóbal (where we would eventually be spending the two weeks after the cruise), and we got on our yacht, called the Eden. While we were waiting for the pangas (pronounced “PAHN-gahss”, Spanish for dinghies), we enjoyed the company of several sea lions that were just hanging out on the benches on the dock, enjoying the gorgeous weather. Apparently this is the norm in Galápagos.

Sea lions just chillin'.

Our yacht, the Eden.


In the next 8 days, we would see 11 of the 18 main islands. I won’t go into detail about what we saw on each island (there are different flora and fauna on every island!), but I’ll sum up what we saw. I’ll let you know up front that none of the wildlife, in the water or on land, is afraid of humans. You might think it’s because they’re used to tourists, but it’s actually because they haven’t endured any harmful contact from humans in several generations, and don’t see humans as a threat. 

Nearly every day, we went snorkeling in the incredibly clear, surprisingly chilly, gorgeous waters around the islands. We saw all kinds of different fish, sea stars, urchins, corals, and sting rays. I even swam with sharks a few times!  There were also very few snorkel sites where we didn’t swim with sea lions and sea turtles. The snorkeling itself was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. I’ll post some pictures, but for a better idea of some of the things we saw, my friend Will (who has an underwater camera) put together a video.  He was on the other boat, and went to different islands than we did, but saw many of the same things. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ld5FhoXQS7o&feature=youtu.be

Pacific Green Sea Turtle
White-tipped reef shark--I chased one down to get a picture of it!



Can you spot the fish in this picture? 

Guineafowl pufferfish

Beautiful sea star and green sea urchin

A view of the beach outside the Darwin Research Station



Sally lightfoot crab--these were all over the place!


Gorgeous shot of some coral/fish at a great
snorkeling site called Kicker Rock


We also went for hikes on land, at least once every day. We saw land iguanas, marine iguanas (swimming lizards!), more sea lions, lots of shore birds (including the famous blue-footed booby), the famous Darwin’s finches, and tortoises. We also got to visit Lonesome George, the only tortoise of his kind left of his species. He’s over 90 years old!
The most adorable baby sea lion in the world.

Swimming marine iguana
Sea Lion showing off

Marine iguanas basking
A view of the coast of one of the smaller islands

Blue-footed booby!




Tortoise
While we weren’t exploring the islands or snorkeling, we hung out on our amazing yacht. The food was incredible, the crew was fantastic, and the boat itself was beautiful. We spent our free time lounging on the sun deck, jumping/flipping/diving off the third floor deck, playing guitar, or swimming in the water around the boat. One night we even met up with the other boat to have a class party. :)



My crew, at the "wear someone else's clothes" party.

Deck diving!

Nothing beats having a chat with your professor over a beer.

We make room for fun, if you can believe it.
(Top to bottom: Tyler, Lauren, me, Danae, Laura, and Hillary)


Fermin, the bartender, dancing with Dolly.



Just a regular day of class.

The eight day cruise obviously went by too fast.  We ended our cruise on Baltra island, met up with the other half of our group, and took a speed boat to San Cristóbal island. When we got on the speed boat, I befriended the captain and his first mate by playing them a little guitar, and they let me sit on the hull. This part of the trip, as simple as it sounds, was one of my favorites. It was a gorgeous day, the water was unbelievably beautiful, and in the two-hour trip, I saw jumping rays and marlins (like swordfish) and enjoyed the breeze.

We arrived on San Cristóbal Island on Sunday, April 1st. We stayed on San Cristóbal in the only town on the island called Puerto Baquerizo Moreno for 12 days with host families. My host “family” was a woman named Narcissa, who lives by herself, and is currently hosting a semester student from Massachusetts named Andrea. I loved staying here! Narcissa was an incredible sweet, if not a bit strange, woman. She was always concerned that I wasn’t eating enough, and told me I had to stop eating “como gatito,” or “like a little cat.” Rest assured, friends, I was well-fed. We went to class at the GAIAS (Galapagos Academic Institute for the  Arts and Sciences) campus, which was conveniently located on a beach called Playa Mann.
Sitting at my favorite soft serve/coffee shop.

The main building (there are 2 total on campus)
The view of the beach from the front door of campus.

Narcissa and I


Sunset from the roof of my host mom's house
In the 12 days that we were on San Cristóbal, we got to do lots of things. We had class most days, some snorkeling activities, and independent research projects. At night, we often hung out on the “main strip” of the town called the “malecón,” or sea front. This street was always bustling with people, including lots of tourists, and lined with shops and restaurants. One of my favorite places was the soft serve/coffee shop.
One night, I went to have a cup of espresso alone, and ran into a few tourists from Spain, France, Colombia, Switzerland, and Ecuador.  Most of them were older, but there was also a little kid named Eto (pronounced “EH-toh”) that picked me some flowers. Adorable.  Anyway, I sat and talked to this group of tourists for couple hours. It made for such an interesting conversation! None of us knew the right combination of languages, so we had to use what we knew (Spanish, English, German, or French) to communicate our points across the table. My 70-year-old Swiss friend Viktor even taught me a bit of German. :) As much as I enjoy seeing all Ecuador has to offer, I don’t usually get the chance to meet many people from around the world, so I really enjoyed that night.
Eto got a hold of my camera...

Sunset at the beach across the street from campus.
Our time on San Cristóbal also went really fast, and it was over before I felt like it even started. We flew home last Friday, and I got to see/hang out with my host family in Quito for the first time in 3.5 weeks. This past week was filled with final exams, assignments, and presentations—a busy one, but I’m officially done with the entire course set, except for my internship!  The islands were one of the most incredible trips I've ever been on. Believe it or not, we actually learned an incredible amount of material, and actually had to do school work! It's a little bit easier to learn, though, when you're in such a cool place.

I started my internship on Wednesday. I decided to stick around Quito for a few days at the start to take advantage of the internet as I prepared to go to the coast.  I’ve spent the last few days putting together some science education classroom assessments, science activities for students on the coast, and getting a feel for the science curriculum in the schools in rural Ecuador. I’m taking off tomorrow morning around 5:30 a.m. to catch a 6 hour bus to the coast. I’ll be bringing a backpack and my guitar, and I’ll be there for 3.5 weeks. I likely won’t have much access to the internet (the closest internet access is a half hour bus ride away), so I’ll be in touch when I get back to Quito.

As of this coming Sunday, I only have one month left in the country. This time has really flown by, and I definitely have mixed feelings about returning. I’m sure I’ll have time to share those upon my return. P.S. Sorry if this seems rushed, unedited, or boring! I’m taking off in a few hours and haven’t packed for my internship yet. Oops.

P.S.S. Thanks to Emily Hilts for unknowingly sharing her underwater pictures for my blog. 

Saturday, April 14, 2012

Back from Galápagos...


Hey friends,

So I just got back from the Galápagos Islands.  Sorry I haven't been around! I’m sure you’re all just itching to hear about it, checking this page hundreds of times a day, but it’s going to be a day or two before I get a post up.  Just hold tight! I promise it’ll be a good one.

Caitlin 

Sunday, March 18, 2012

En vacaciones!

Hi friends!


I've just returned from a fantastic spring break! It was some much needed down-time after last week. I didn't really have an itinerary, reservations, or plans in general. As many of you know, this is kind of my style, and I dig it. 


I started my adventure at 7:30 a.m on Saturday morning. I walked to the airport in Quito, checked in, and went through security all in a half hour. You'd be surprised at how efficient things go at airports when there are no restrictions. One of my classmates, Sam, had happened to have the same flight, so for a few days we traveled (more or less) as a pair. I flew from Quito over the Andes to Manta, Ecuador, which is on the coast. The airport in Manta, like the one in Coca, is about the size of my living room and kitchen combined (if that). I caught a cab to the bus station in Manta, and bought a ticket for the 3-hour bus ride to a small fishing town further south on the coast called Puerto Lopez. As always, there were dozens of buses lined up, and we picked the one whose driver was shouting the name of our destination the loudest. 
Not-so-great picture of the bus station
The ride through the countryside down the coast was beautiful. The bus made a stop in Jipijapa ("hippy-hoppa", also the name of my neighborhood in Quito), where dozens of vendors get on the bus, ride for a few minutes trying to sell you their goods (coco milk, sandwiches, pop, freshly baked bread, etc.), and get off.  I also noticed that it seemed like every little town we went through had a "specialty" item they sold, like shells, gold statues, pottery, or wood carvings, for example.
The coastline of Ecuador


Shops like these line the roads; this one 
sold painted vases and mirrors
Since I didn't have reservations or a hostel lined up in advance, I went with Sam to the hostel with which she had made reservations, hoping they'd let me sleep on her floor. They did me one better--they gave us a room with a twin bed for each of us. The hostel was called Hostería Mandála, and it was probably the most beautiful, incredible hostel I've ever stayed at, for 19 dollars/night. The owners are a couple from Switzerland and Italy--the guy spoke Spanish like an Italian, which was hilarious. There were dozens of small buildings for the rooms, each of which had its own bathroom (and hot water!), and one main building for the restaurant, kitchen, music room, book exchange, cactus garden, TV room, and safe-box room.  The grounds were also covered in plant life, and there were even a couple of botanical gardens with paths running through them. The music room had a couple guitars, a marimba, a bunch of drums, and some other random instruments for guests to play at their leisure. And at my leisure I did play. I spent 3 fantastic days reading, playing guitar, swimming in the ocean, playing with their 5 huge dogs, and relaxing in a hammock. They also had wireless internet--it was great to talk to you, family. :)  The only downside to this paradise was that the mosquitoes seemed to enjoy it as well. The food was fantastic, of course, and I enjoyed a few pasta dishes, fresh fruit, and drinks.
Entrance to the hostel


Beach at sunset
The room key awkwardly attached to a pelican, because
the room was called "Pelicano"


You can't go wrong with a caiparinha on the beach...

"Pasta al Aurelio" (Aurelio is the Italian owner's name)
Shrimp in a white wine sauce, with ham, nuts, and parmesan.

The music room
Huge dog


A small section of the multi-lingual book exchange

The beach at sunset with the thatch-roofed shelters to hang hammocks

In town in Puerto Lopez
Signs pointing to the world's major cities.


The fishing boats off the beach in Puerto Lopez
Random giant corn cob I thought you'd all appreciate.























































Sam and I hesitantly left Puerto Lopez on Wednesday morning to head south toward Guayaquil to catch a bus to Cuenca, Ecuador.  After a 4 hour bus ride from Puerto Lopez, we arrived at the mall-sized bus station at Guayaquil, the largest and most heavily populated city in Ecuador. There are over a hundred places to buy a bus tickets at the bus station in Guayaquil, so again we just listened for somebody to yell "a Cuenca!" at us. It took less than 30 seconds--5 minutes and 8 dollars later, the bus pulled out of Guayaquil toward Cuenca, which is in the mountains.  The 4 hour trip from the coast to Cuenca was incredible. From one of the lower elevations in Ecuador (sea level) through some of the highest mountains in the country, there were so many unique landscapes.


From the coast...

...to the cloud forest...

...to the high sierra...

...and everything in between.

Beautiful mountain freshwater lake.




















I fell in love with Cuenca as soon as the bus hit the outskirts of town. It is one of the most charming, beautiful towns I've ever seen! I had found out the day before that my best friend Tracy Turba from Platteville has relatives that are living in Cuenca for the next couple months.  Hoping for some suggestions on what to do in Cuenca, I contacted them the day before we left the beach.  Instead of giving me suggestions, they opened their home to me for a few days! Dave, Annika, and two of their boys Hans and Anton live in a 9th story apartment overlooking the amazing town of Cuenca. Not only did I take up a mattress on their living room floor, but they were my gracious tour guides to the city. 


The first day, we walked around for a few hours downtown. On the city square, there is an incredible cathedral, called Catedral Nueva (New Cathedral) originally built in 1885. The story goes that the Spanish settlers didn't want to finish it, because if they did, they would have had to pay taxes to Spain.  There is also a Catedral Vieja (Old Cathedral) directly opposite the square, which was built in 1567. The oldest tower on this church was used as a reference point for the French Geodesic Mission, part of which measured curve of the Earth, and established a meridian arc (a measurement between points of the same latitude). You'll excuse the nerd in me. 


A neighborhood in Cuenca, from 9 stories up

Downtown Cuenca

Catedral Nueva

The front of Catedral Nueva

A tower of Catedral Vieja

The front of Catedral Vieja
After seeing the cathedrals, we walked around town a bit. There were markets everywhere, and the streets were alive with people on a Thursday morning. We also walked through a flower market--one of the best smelling things ever. There is a river that runs straight down the middle of the town called Tomebamba (pronounced "toh-may-BOM-ba"). We walked down the river and back up. There is a bridge called Puente Roto, or Broken Bridge, just off the river. The whole riverwalk is beautiful, and the day was exceptionally sunny for Cuenca.  When we got back to the apartment, Annika made a phenomenal stirfry, with fresh everything-you-can-imagine. I felt like royalty.


Puente Roto 
Tomebamba River, with the mountains in the background


I met up with a few classmates on Thursday night at a really cool bar called Monday Blue. I had a fantastic margherita pizza and Bailey's Irish Cream oreo shake (I started St. Patrick's Day celebrations early, of course). We also stopped by a dessert/ice cream shop called Frutilado (a blend between the Spanish words for fruit ["fruta"] and ice cream ["helado"]). I must say, the ice cream in Ecuador will never rival Babcock's.  
Bailey's oreo shake.

La pizza! 
The inside of Monday Blue
On Friday morning, Dave and Annika took me to the biggest and best fresh market I've ever seen. Everything you can imagine, from beef, pork, and fish to fruits and vegetables I've never heard of were everywhere. The market itself probably took up half a dozen city blocks, and I didn't even see half of it. 
Cuyi (pronounced "koo-EE"), or guinea pig
A full cow


A hog's head. Delicious.

Chocolate!
Vegetables, vegetables, vegetables.

Honey, oats, nuts, and blocked sugar.


Lots of fish.
On Friday afternoon/night, I explored the city a bit more. I went to a free museum at El Banco Central del Ecuador (The Central Bank of Ecuador), and then met up with my classmates again for dinner. We had dinner (white wine and mushroom pasta) overlooking the river, with fireworks in the background. Afterward, we went to a free symphony orchestra concert in the auditorium at the Central Bank of Ecuador (I'm not sure why the bank seems to host so many attractions...). It turns out that the solo cellist was from Venezuela and got his Doctor of Musical Arts degree at UW-Madison! Qué chévere!  After the concert, we stopped at a small Italian café, where I had some fantastic tiramisù.






On Saturday, I celebrated my favorite holiday by going ziplining. Dave, Annika, Hans, Anton, and I took a very jerky bus to the edge of the city, and caught a "mixta" or truck to the countryside. Fortunately, there weren't enough seats for all of us to sit in the cab, so Hans, Anton, and I elected the back of the truck. Not only is the countryside near Cuenca beautiful, but seeing it from the back of a truck going down a dirt road made it a great ride. For 8 dollars, there were 6 ziplines, a few of which crossed a huge valley. I was feeling adventurous, as usual, and went "Superman" style and "Mariposa" style (upside down). Ziplining is my new love. While waiting for our mixta to return, we shared a couple Pilseners, and went back to town.  We then ate at a really cool indoor courtyard restaurant owned by an American couple--my first burger since I left the States. 
Hans and Anton in the back of our mixta

Cuencano countryside

All suited up!

My friend Leo hooking me in.

Mariposa! (butterfly) They had me let my hands go too.

Coming in from across the valley


After lunch we walked home in the rain (another love of mine), and I packed up my bag to head back to Quito.  I opted for the 35 minute flight back home over the 10 hour bus ride.  It was equally as hard to leave Cuenca as it was to leave Puerto Lopez. I was so grateful to have had the chance to travel a bit inside the country. I can't thank Dave and Annika enough for being such gracious hosts and wonderful tour guides!


Here is a link to a map showing my travels. Mom, seeing as you're probably one of the first to read this, let me know if it doesn't work. ;)


http://www.travellerspoint.com/member_map.cfm#/map/6635


Today one of my classmates, Adam, had a bunch of us over for a "Pre-Galapagos" get-together. I sauteed some onions, peppers, and portabellas, and we grilled some burgers on the roof of his host family's apartment building. It was quite the finish to a fantastic break, and a great start to my upcoming adventures. Sorry this one was so long! 


On Wednesday, my class leaves for the coast again (close to where I was in Puerto Lopez), and then to the Galapagos for an 8-day cruise and a 2-week homestay on San Cristobal island. I'll do my best to keep y'all posted. Until then, adios!